I had to postpone my trip for five years due to an illness and later the Corona pandemic. When I was fully fit again, I took the train to Tende to walk to catch up the Via Alpina track.

In the meantime, the Via Alpina organization had shifted the route, it had been shortened. I decided to walk the new route.

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Tende to Refuge de Valmasque

Tende sur Roya is a pleasant small medieval town. I stayed there for two days in the very pleasant Gîte d'Etape.

Hiking to Castérino along a gradually climbing track above a valley. Through this town the old Via Alpina used to go. Lots of Hotels and Auberges here in this touristy town.

The next day to Réfuge de Valmasque along an old military road. This is one of my favorite huts. Friendly people, and in the evening a couple sang and played the guitar.

On the Baisse de Valmasque I joined the new official Via Alpina!

Stage 112: Refuge des Merveilles

Website

Baisse de Valmasque (2550m). This is your last pass above 2500 m. After here you will enter the Vallée des Merveilles, where in the late stone-age magicians carved inscriptions in the rocks. Do not miss these! Large iron poles will direct you to places where they can be seen.

Refuge des Merveilles (2130m). This hut is packed full of tourist groups during the high season. But 100m off the hut there is a free camp-site. You can still get meals in the Refuge.

Stage 113: Camp d’Argent

Website

Col de Diable (2430m) This is your last pass above 2000 m. It is named "Pass of the Devil", because for centuries nobody dared to pass it to the Vallée. After this col the landscape will change dramatically. From here on until Monaco no water to be found, so take plenty with you. A little after the Redoute you will come below 2000m.

Camp d'Argent (1800m) The Gite is the only place to stay, but it is pleasant. They have dorms and a campsite.

Stage 114: Sospel

Website

Camp d'Argent (1800m) The Gite is the only place to stay, but it is pleasant. They have dorms and a campsite. Further down you will pass the barracks of the WWII allies (Moulinet, 1830m), the information panels will tell you about the heavy fighting during the end of that war. Just before Sospel the path will go down 1500 m! Very exhausting.

Sospel (400m) Stay in the Auberge du Pont Vieux just near the old bridge. There is no reception, call the phone number that is written on the door. The owner speaks English. There is also a campsite just outside town. Make a visit to the old town. Very well worth seeing. After Sospel the GR52 and the Via Alpina devide. You will see very few hikers from here.

Stage 115: Peillon

Website

Col du Farguet (1080m) This is the last pass above 1000m. After here the climate feels very Mediterranean. The path will be rough, dry, roll-under-your-shoes stones, and at places totally overgrown with thorny bushes. No sign posts. A GPS with the track in it stored is highly recommended.

Peille (690m) Beautiful village. Except for 2 private rooms there is no place to stay. There are restaurants and cafes. Fill up your water bottles! Leaving the village you will see the first glimpse of the Mediterranean Sea!

Peillon (430m) The luxurious Auberge de la Madone welcomes Via Alpina hikers, but is more expensive than you are used to. Ask for a room at the back. These will do for around 100 Euro single (food excluded). The food is a daily menu, and is good. Treat yourself, it will be your last night in the mountains! Do not forget to make a walk though the beautiful old town.

Stage 116: Monaco

Website

Long parts through suburbs with villa's; high walls around and cameras. Boring.

Monaco (20m) The best place to stay is probably Hotel de France. Only 50 m off the Via Alpina track in de Condamine district, and 15 min walking to the train station (ask the manager for the shortest way). A single room is around 140 Euros. The rooms have air conditioning, and after a day in sticky hot Monaco, it feels here nice cool and fresh like the old days in that hut high up in the mountains... When I was there the Jardin Exotique was closed for reconstructions, and so was the Via Alpina office that I wanted to visit.

Summary

Moving time 31 hours, 106km, minimum height 55m, maximum height 2620m. Ascent +9225m, Descent 10035m.

All my overnight stays along the Via Alpina in 2024

44.0825, 7.5924

Tende?

44.0987, 7.5060

Castérino?

44.1082, 7.4467

Refuge de Valmasque?

44.0575, 7.4519

Refuge des Merveilles?

43.9887, 7.4015

Camp d'Argent?

43.8776, 7.4492

Sospel?

43.8000, 7.3999

Peil?

43.7787, 7.3821

Peillon?

43.7334, 7.4184

Monaco?

center=44.0, 7.40 zoom=9